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View Full Version : Full tutorial - Object and texture creation with uv mapping explained!


GCmax
19th Feb 2008, 7:34 PM
This tutorial will cover the creation of an object.
This tutorial is not involved with SimPE in any way, I am not very conversant with the SimPE program so please don't ask any questions regarding that! :)

Programs required;
3ds max or equivalent
Experience required;
Basic understanding, pictures are included so this is step by step (If you happen to be a dumbo like me and get stuck alot this should help!)

Before anything happens I have included a startup file called "Framework", download this and check out the new settings...
(If you are concerned this file is only customised and contains no models or anything - it's just an empty file with some really handy settings that makes everything so much easier)

Ok start max and load the file or just click the file. We are already setup in metric - meters (better to know you are working to units - makes modelling easier)
You will see that the screen colour borders have changed and the layout making the perspective window larger and things easier to see.

FIRST SECTION - OBJECT CREATION

Let's start...

We need to right click the perspective view port label and select edged faces (this makes the edges of our objects visible which is great for modelling)

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/1aEdgedfaces.jpg

Select standard primitives and drag out a box in the perspective viewport, any size.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/1bCreatebox.jpg

Go to the modify tab and give it these settings X 1.0m x Y 1.0m x Z 1.0m with 1 x 1 x 1 segments.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/2Boxdimensions.jpg

See the box in the perspective view, it should look like this...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/first.jpg

Ok...
Next hit "j" to turn off the strange border you have around the box that always seems to get in the way!
Then hit "g" to turn off the grid so we can devote all our attention to the job at hand :)
Now your screen should look like this...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Nogridandobjectorder.jpg

All set? Let's go do some stuff!!

Ok right click the box and convert it into an "Editable Poly"
Change to sub object edge mode.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Edgemode.jpg

Select some edges at any side of the box like you are trying to cut right through the middle of it (we should now have four edges selected)

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Edgesselected.jpg

Right click and select "Connect" to make a centre line.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Edgesconnected.jpg

Switch to polygon mode and select half of the box.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Halfselectedbox.jpg

Press the delete key to remove it leaving half a box.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Halfabox.jpg

Go to the modifier list and select symmetry.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Symmetry.jpg

Right click the spinner that says threshold to take it to 0 then click it up 1 notch to make the setting 0.01.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Symmetryboxedthreshold.jpg

Now your box may or may not be visible depending on which side you deleted, mine isn't as in the picture if this happens to you too just flip the mirror axis or change the axis till the box is visible.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Symmetrymirroraxisflip.jpg

Ok now switch to Editable Poly and show the end result so you can see both sides of the box while you work on one...

Now we can begin modelling...

Select one poly at the side of the box and go to the modify panel.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/1poly.jpg

Select the inset function and set the size to 0.1m, select ok.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Inset.jpg

Now click the extrude button and set the size to -0.1m, select ok.
Your box should now look like this...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Extrude.jpg

Ok select the edges as seen and hit the ring button to select them all at that side of the box.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Ring.jpg

Now right click and do as we did before using the connect function.
Convert the box to an editable poly.
Select the edges as seen and press the loop function.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Loop.jpg

Now right click and select remove but while you do this hold down CTRL to take away the vertices as well!

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Removingaloop.jpg

Ok now select the polygon opposite where we did some modelling work and perform the same operations so that the sides match.
We now have 3 sides that look the same but we need all the sides to look the same, now you will realise that we made those extra edges for a reason :)
Select the other half of the object and delete it, use the steps above to add the symmetry mod again and then convert back to editable poly to end up with this...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Endresult.jpg

All we are left to do now is to delete those extra edges we don't need to make the mapping easier.

Onto creating a scratch texture in Photoshop :) Coming soon...





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Tutorials:Object and texture creation with uv mapping explained!

GCmax
13th Mar 2008, 6:11 PM
This tutorial will cover the creation of a realistic wooden texture from scratch.
This tutorial is not involved with SimPE in any way, I am not very conversant with the SimPE program so please don't ask any questions regarding that!

Programs required;
Photoshop CS2 or equivalent
Experience required;
Basic understanding of the program, pictures are included so this is step by step (If you happen to be a dumbo like me and get stuck alot this should help!)

FIRST TEXTURE - WOOD BASE

We are going to use this texture as a base for the whole crate.

Lets make a new document 512 pixels by 512 pixels RGB colour and press ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Newfile.jpg

Set foreground colour to R101 G75 B49 and background colour to R142 G109 B62, this should give us a nice contrasty wooden colour that's not too obvious.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/FGBGselectionsstep1.jpg

Ok now we need to use a filter called "Fibers" to give us our first wooden look.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/FilterRenderFibers.jpg

Set the "Variance" to 22 and the "Strength" to 64 which is maximum and press ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Fibersstep1.jpg


Now create a new layer, press ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Newlayer.jpg

Use the paint bucket tool to fill it with a colour, any will do.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Paintbucketnewlayer.jpg

Change the foreground colour to R87 G80 B54 and background colour to R152 G126 B64.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/FGBGselectionsstep2.jpg

Again use "Filter", "Render", "Fibers" and set the "Variance" to 12 but leave the "Strength" at max where it was last.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Fibersstep2.jpg

Select layer 1 above the background and change the blending mode to colour dodge.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/BlendingmodeColourDodge.jpg

You can see our texture is starting to look better but is too bright and contrasty, lets fix that.

Select "Image", "Adjustments", "Brightness/Contrast" set the "Brightness" to -70 and the "Contrast" to -70 aswell, press ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Brightnesscontrast.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Brightnesscontrast2.jpg

Now select "Layer" and "Flatten Image" to merge our two layers.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Flatten.jpg

Our texture needs a little grain so select "Filter", "Noise" and "Add Noise..."
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Noisefilter1.jpg

Select "Gaussain" and check "Monochromatic" change the amount to 2.03%.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Noisefilter2.jpg

The texture is nearly there but needs a little more realism, lets get to it :)

Select "Layer", "Duplicate Layer..." As: "Background copy" and click ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Duplicatelayer.jpg

Make sure your new copied layer is selected and pick "Filter", "Stylise", "Emboss..." Set the "Height" to 1 pixel and the "Amount" to 500% (max) click ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Emboss.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Emboss2.jpg

Now choose "Image", "Adjustments" and "Desaturate" to rid ourselves of the colour, again make sure your new layer is selected.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Desaturate.jpg

Ok now we need to blend this height change into our wooden colour texture.

Select the Background copy layer and change the blending mode to "Linear Light"
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/BlendingmodeLinearLight.jpg

You can already see the change but it is too strong and rough for our crate so lets change the opacity of the layer to compensate for this.

Set the opacity to 45% and then as we did before go to Layer and Flatten Image.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Layeropacity.jpg

The texture looks okay but needs a final touch, select "Image", "Adjustments" and this time "Hue/Saturation..."
Change the values as follows "Hue" -6 "Saturation" -25 "Lightness" -3.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/HueSaturation.jpg

The first texture is complete.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Finalimage.jpg

Second texture will follow shortly, hope you enjoyed this so far and I promise that boring looking crate we made will not look so boring soon :)

GCmax
16th Mar 2008, 5:53 PM
This tutorial will cover the creation of a realistic wooden slatted texture.
This tutorial is not involved with SimPE in any way, I am not very conversant with the SimPE program so please don't ask any questions regarding that!

Programs required;
Photoshop CS2 or equivalent
Experience required;
Basic understanding of the program, pictures are included so this is step by step (If you happen to be a dumbo like me and get stuck alot this should help!)

SECOND TEXTURE - WOODEN SLATS

We are going to use our original texture with some vectors and effects to create wooden slats for the depressions in the side of the crate.

Open the texture we made in the last part.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Openlasttexture.jpg

Double click the background layer and press ok confirming the new editable layer.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Makeeditablelayer.jpg

Click the "Rectangular Marquee Tool" and right click somewhere in the middle of the document.
Select "Free Transform" then right click again on the document.
Choose rotate 90 degrees CW or CCW.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Freetransformprocess1.jpg

Click the arrow that is labelled "Commit Transform (Return)"
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Committransformchanges.jpg

Go to "Edit", "Define Pattern" give it a name and click ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Definepattern1.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Definepattern2.jpg

Close the file but don't save it! Make a new one 512 pixels by 512 pixels RGB colour and press ok.

Hover over the edge of the new document and drag it out to expose the borders as pictured.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Dragpictureborders.jpg

Click the rectangle tool and drag out a shape, don't worry about the colour of the shape as this will be changed.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Rectangletool.jpg

Now double click to the right of the new layer called shape 1, this will open up the "Layer Style" window.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Shape1.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Openinglayerstylingbox.jpg

Click Pattern Overlay and highlight it then put a tick in the box.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Layerstylingpatternoverlay.jpg
Click the little arrow next to the indicated pattern and choose your new pattern that you named, don't press ok yet.

*Note we want these textures to match so don't change the scale of the pattern at all, just use the default settings which is the original size of the texture we made.

Now we have a very basic rectangular beam of wood, lets edit that and make it look more realistic.

In the layer style window again choose this time "Drop Shadow" make these following settings "Opacity" 100%, "Distance" 0px, "Spread" 7%, "Size" 6px (again don't press okay!)
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Layerstylingdropshadow.jpg

Drop down to "Inner Shadow" highlight and tick the box then make the following settings "Opacity" 43%, "Distance" 0px, "Choke" 67%, "Size" 8px.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Layerstylinginnershadow.jpg

Looking better but still needs a bit more editing.
Go 3 down the list to "Bevel and Emboss" highlight that and put a tick in the box, change the settings as follows...
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Layerstylingemboss.jpg
"Structure" section
"Style" Emboss, "Technique" Chisel - Hard "Depth" 1% "Size" 7px "Soften" 7px

"Shading" section
"Angle" 90 degrees, uncheck "Global Light"
"Altitude" 32 degrees

We are now finished with the layer styling so press ok to confirm the changes.
We have a beam that looks pretty good but we need to offset this effect by using a background colour to give the impression of more depth and spacing.

Select the background layer and click the foreground colour swatch.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectbgchangeforegroundcolour.jpg
Click the Eyedropper tool and click a region of the wooden plank we made in the darkest area.
Move the circle down in the foreground colour swatch to make it darker till you get something you like or just use these settings R20 G13 B9 and press ok.

Select the paintbucket tool still with the Bg layer selected and fill the area.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Paintbuckettool-areafilled.jpg

Now select the shape layer and double click where the text is to rename it "Plank 1" or something similar.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Shapelayerrename.jpg

Go to "Layer", "Duplicate Layer" and rename it "Plank 2", press ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Duplicatelayer-1.jpg

Select the move tool and move the "Plank 2" to a suitable distance from the original as shown.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Movetool.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Moveplank2.jpg

Now make sure one of your plank shapes are selected and the holding CTRL select the other "Plank" shape layer.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/2layersselected.jpg

With both layers highlighted click and drag them down to the folder symbol to make a group.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Newgroupfromlayers.jpg

Double click the group and rename it "Planks".
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Renamenewgroup.jpg

Select the move tool again and move the planks near the top of the document as pictured, this is not essential but gives us an idea of sizing.


*Note, we want a 1pixel gap from where the plank starts from the top of the document, this is so if we were to tile this texture vertically it would respond correctly.
Also note that at this stage we are looking to see how many planks will fill the document so the above note will become valid at the end when all the planks are created.

The textures on the planks are looking too uniform so we need to change that before making more planks.

Expand the "Planks" group.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Expandedgroup.jpg

Highlight "Plank 2"
As we did before press the "Rectangular Marquee Tool" and then again "Free Transform" right clicking on the document.
Click "Flip Vertical" and commit the changes by clicking the tick as we did before.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Freetransformflipvertical.jpg

Now we are ready to duplicate this group so close the group and make sure the whole group is highlighted.
Go again to "Layer" but this time see that we are choosing the whole group so the selction has changed to "Duplicate Group" accept this and rename it "Planks 2", press ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Duplicateandrenamegroup.jpg

Repeat this procedure one more time again renaming the last group "Planks 3" till you get this...
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/3groupstillyougetthis.jpg
*Note, if you made your first plank shape the same size as mine you will see that it almost fits nicely inside the document but not quite, yours maybe a little different but that's okay we will fix it now :)

Following the procedures before highlight all the groups and drag them into a new group, rename this group "All planks".
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Select3groupsregroupandrename.jpg

With the new multi group selected - press the "Rectangular Marquee Tool" and then again "Free Transform" right clicking on the document.
We are going to alter the vertical height so that our planks fit snugly inside the document while leaving a tiny space for the background spacing.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Freetransformscale.jpg

Right click the document and choose scale, alter the height of top and bottom of planks so that a very small gap is made (1pixel) that shows the Bg.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Scaleplanks.jpg

*Note the last plank at the bottom will have to be scaled up alot more to be inside the document so keep scaling till it is inside the doc with the same gap as the top.
Click the tick to accept the changes.

Go to the group and right click it and select merge group (we have to do this to alter the side scaling to get rid of the "Emboss", "Layer Style" - this is so we can tile the document horizontally if needed)
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Mergingagroup.jpg

The group turns into a normal layer again which is still selected/highlighted, repeat the same procedure as before ("Rectangular Marquee Tool" then "Free Transform")
Choose scale again (right click) and scale the edges (left/right) till the "Emboss Effect" is gone, click the tick when you are done.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Scaleplanks2ridembosshorizontal.jpg

Go to "Layer", "Flatten Image" this texture is complete!
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Flattenimage.jpg
Final result...
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Finalimage-1.jpg
That's not quite the end of texturing as we will be modifying these textures after unwrapping our crate to give some extra detail, hope you enjoyed so far :)

GCmax
18th Mar 2008, 2:45 PM
This tutorial will cover the UV mapping of the crate object.
This tutorial is not involved with SimPE in any way, I am not very conversant with the SimPE program so please don't ask any questions regarding that!

Programs required;
3ds max or equivalent
Experience required;
Basic understanding, pictures are included so this is step by step (If you happen to be a dumbo like me and get stuck alot this should help!)

By the end of the first part you should be left with this...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Crate-spin.gif

So by now you should have your crate file open and ready.
Select the crate and press "U" on the keyboard for "UVW Unwrap" or go to "Modifiers List", "Unwrap UVW".
The crate will now have a green border around it confirming the modifier has been added.

In the "UVW Unwrap" modifier select "Faces" and then press the "Edit" button in the rolllout.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/UVUnwrapfacesmode.jpg

Confirm the new "Edit UVW's" window has appeared.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/EditUVWswindow.jpg

Select "Mapping", "Normal Mapping..." and a new window will come up with a dropdown, select "Box Mapping" and click ok.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Mappingnormalmap.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Boxmap.jpg
See the result of your box map in the new "Edit UVW's" window.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultofboxmap.jpg
Minimize the window.

We need to do some selecting of faces manually on the object that are in the same area.

First let's select some of the smallest parts being the strips top and bottom of the recesses we made as follows.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectingfaces1a.jpg
To select multiple faces hold down the control key and then keep rotating around the crate till you have selected all of the faces on the top and bottom.
Now press "Edit" on the "Unwrap UVW's" modifier rollout to bring the window back up again, check to see the same result here.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultoffaceselect1a.jpg

Select "Tools" and the "Break" option to make those faces moveable.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Toolsbreak.jpg
Maximise the window, right click and hold down left mouse over the green selected faces to move them away from the rest of the layout.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Movefacesaway.jpg
*The idea is to match up all the same pieces in the same area to make texturing easier.

We can see the faces we selected are all the same size but half of them face another direction so we must rotate them (right click) first get the faces in order.
Now select half of them that are vertical like this and rotate them to end up with this.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Verticalfacesselcted.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Seperatedfacesmovetogetherresult1a.jpg
*Don't worry about the final postition of these faces we seperated, just make sure they are together and away from the rest of the UV map.
*Special note - NO faces should ever overlap!!

Let's minimize the "Edit UVW's" window again and select some more faces as pictured.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectingfaces1b.jpg
Again open the "Edit UVW's" window by pressing "Edit" this time from the last point we were working from you might not be able to see those new selected faces so hover over the "Zoom" button (a black box) and hold down left click till three boxes come up as pictured, let go on the centre one (white box) the view will centre on our new selection.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Zoomextents.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultoffaceselect1b.jpg
*Alternatively you can use the zoom (magnifying glass) to move in and out with left mouse and drag or zoom region (magnifying glass with black dotted box) to draw around a selection or the pan function (hand symbol) it's very similar to Photoshop :)
Use the break function again to seperate the new faces and move them away from the rest of the map.
Again select the individual faces and move them around close to each other.
You should end up with this.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Seperatedfacesmovetogetherresult1b.jpg

Keep repeating this procedure in the following 4 steps.

1.
Select
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectingfaces2.jpg
Edit
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultoffaceselect2.jpg
Move
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Seperatedfacesmovetogetherresult2.jpg

2.
Select
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectingfaces3.jpg
Edit
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultoffaceselect3.jpg
Move
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Seperatedfacesmovetogetherresult3.jpg

3.
Select
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectingfaces4.jpg
Edit
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultoffaceselect4.jpg
Move
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Seperatedfacesmovetogetherresult4.jpg

4.
Select
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Selectingfaces5.jpg
Edit
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Resultoffaceselect5.jpg
Move
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Seperatedfacesmovetogetherresult5.jpg

Now we have all our shapes seperated and arranged it is time to move them together into a final map.
Move all the pieces around till they occupy the central square that is indicated by a blue border, your final map should look like this.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Finalmap.jpg
*You will have to scale ALL the UV's ALL at the same time (important) never individually so make sure they are all highlighted in green before you scale them down.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/ScaleUVs.jpg
*Make sure the UV's are close to each other but there is a gap between the groups we were working on and them scale them down to fit into the centre square as pictured in the final map.

Now it's time to render a UV template to paste our textures onto.
Deselect all the UV's and go to "Tools", "Render UV Template..."
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/ToolsUVtemplate.jpg
In the new small window, make the following settings.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/RenderUVtemplatesettings.jpg

"Width:" 1024
"Height:" 1024
Mode: Solid
Uncheck "Show Overlap", "Visible Edges" and "Seam Edges"

Now click the button underneath "Render UV Template" and see your new map come up on screen, click the disc icon to save the map.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/UVtemplatemap.jpg
Save the image as a bitmap using RGB 24bit in a safe place on your hardrive.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/SavingUVtemplatemap.jpg
We are done with the UV's so now we can close the windows we have open and return to the main object in the viewport.
Right click the object and convert it to "Editable Poly"
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Converttoeditpoly.jpg
Goto "File" "Save As" "Crate Mapped" or something similar.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Filesaveas.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/tuts/Filesaveas2.jpg
We are done here, next part we will go back into Photoshop with our map and texture it while using 3ds max to view our result :)

Ps: If there is anything you are unsure of or having difficulty with please ask!

GCmax
2nd Jun 2008, 10:30 PM
Tutorial - Creating a texture map with Photoshop and 3ds max

This tutorial will cover the application of textures to form a UV map.
This tutorial is not involved with SimPE in any way, I am not very conversant with the SimPE program so please don't ask any questions regarding that! :)

Programs required;
3ds max or equivalent
Photoshop CS or equivalent
Experience required;
Basic understanding of both programs, pictures are included so this is step by step
(If you happen to be a dumbo like me and get stuck alot this should help!)

FINAL SECTION - CREATING A MAP AND EDITING + AO PASS MULTIPLIER

Welcome to the finale, I'm sorry I have been away for a while, I hope those who were following didn't lose faith in this being completed.
I know all the pictures may take quite a while to load so to make this quicker to load I will include the pictures in a download while just referencing them here (fig 1, fig 2 etc)
Also included in the download will be the finished textures and UV map with all the files required to get this done :)

Intro: Quickview of what we are aiming to achieve here is to create an object that has a map that can be used inside a game engine while looking as realistic as possible.
To do this we will be painting over textures using layers and then creating an ambient occlusion pass that will be multiplied against our textures to add accurate shadows that realtime lighting solutions are not capable of producing.

Stage 1 (making a texture map)

Starting from where we were last time we now have a UV map to apply textures to so we need to open Photoshop and start the process.
Start Photoshop or open the file with Photoshop (fig 1) make as much space as possible in CS by moving or excluding menus items then press the spyglass (magnifier) over the map and "fit to screen".
Now we need to open the two textures that we made previously, do the same thing and maximise the space to reveal as much detail as possible to make our job easier, now we should have three docs open in CS.
Ok now open the last file that we saved in 3ds max (fig 2) note that the UV editor is open so that we can relate the UV positions to the map creation process in CS.
Switch back to CS and copy the planks texture (edit, select and copy) click the map document with our UV's on and press edit paste creating a new layer (fig 3) leave this for now and switch back to 3ds max.
In max we need to make sure where we are putting this texture by locating the desired UV's, lets do that (fig 4) from looking at figure 4 we can see that the four area's required are all the same size.
Switch back to CS, select the layer we just made and right click anywhere inside the document choosing free transform, right click again and choose scale (fig 5) we now need to alter the size of our texture to fit one of the UV squares.
A border with movers will appear around the layer, choose one of the corner movers and scale it down to fit the square, when you have a decent size you need to reduce the opacity and click and hold the centre of the selection to move it into position (fig 6)
Now it's time to fine tune the selection so that it fits the square exactly (fig 7) First press the tick at the top of CS UI to confirm the changes and then press the magnify tool over the working area and get a good view. Again press select, right click, free transform and scale but this time move the movers top, bottom, left and right (no corners) to encompass the square, finally press the tick at the top of CS UI to confirm the changes when done.

We now need to test the results in 3ds max, save the file as a PSD somewhere handy (note: return the opacity of the texture layer to 100% FIRST) Switch to max. Load the texture into the material editor (fig 8 & 9) and apply it to the object, click the show map button and rotate the screen to see where and how our texture is looking (fig 10)
As long as the steps have been followed the texture will be sitting nicely on the object by now so all we have to do is repeat the steps here for the remaining three sides of the object that require the planks.

Next we have to work our other texture into our UV map for the last pieces of the puzzle.
As we did before select the whole document copying and pasting it onto the UV map (fig 11)
Now might be a good idea to start grouping your layers or naming them, I didn't do this for speed but it is good practise when you start creating much more complex objects.
Let's tackle the hardest parts first and pay attention to which way the wood grain runs (fig 12) * We have to rotate by 90 degrees using transform selection as we did before.
Commit the changes and save the file, continue to the other area (see fig 11, yellow 2) this time you can either copy and paste the original texture and resize it without having to rotate it as the grain runs the correct way this time or you could copy and paste the last layer and rotate it while keeping the same scale, see what works for you.
You should end up with this (fig 13) switch back to max to confirm the changes are correct.
Now we can texture the rest of the crates UV's by simply following these steps, once you are finished your map should look something like this (fig 14)

Advice...
*Be aware that it is wise to keep the textures at their original scale so that no stretching occours.
*You may have to trim parts of the textures to fit by drawing a selection region and clearing from the edit dropdown.
*Keep checking as you save the texture map in CS to see the result in max (there may be other areas which need rotating!)


Once you are done with the map and satisfied with the results on the object goto CS and flatten the image and save it under a new name in the format of your choice using the highest settings to ensure quality.

Stage 2 (creating an ambient occlusion pass)

If you have never done this before don't worry it is a simple process that is mostly automated :)

Let's start...

Select the object if not already selected right click and convert it to a poly to get rid of the UV edit modifier.
Press the render dropdown and select render (fig 15) On the first tab "Common" scroll down the end and expand "Assign Renderer" on "Production" press the button to the right and in the new window select Mental Ray click ok (fig 16)
Press "m" to bring up the material editor and choose a new blank material, press the diffuse button and in the list of maps choose "Ambient/Reflective Occlusion Base" this is the first choice at the top. (fig 17) Press ok to confirm selection then make the following adjustments... (fig 18) "Samples" 32, "Spread" 1.0
As before apply the new material to the object, render if you wish to see the result, it may take a small amount of time to do this.
Ok now we have our texture applied we need to setup the lighting, I will briefly cover this area.

1. Goto the create tab (fig 19) and make an omni.
2. Drag on the screen to position the light (anywhere)
3. In the rollout parameters of the light reduce the intensity to 0.46
4. Align the light to the centre of the object.
5. Move the light a decent distance from the object (3m) to illuminate one side.
(See fig 20 for steps 2-5)

6. Adjust the pivot of the omni light and align it to the objects centre (fig 21) remember to deactivate the pivot when done.
7. With the light still selected and both the light and the object in view right click and press rotate (make sure angle snaps is selected) hold down shift (fig 22) and move the light 180 degrees on any axis to create a duplicate (copy)
8. Select both duplicates (hold ctrl to select multiple objects) and repeat the procedure to make 2 more lights illuminating another side of the object (fig 23)
9. Finally do this again to end up with 6 lights for the 6 faces of the object (fig 24)

Now we have 6 lights an equal distance from the object illuminating all the surfaces as if sunlight was hitting the object at 360 degrees.
This is all we need to start rendering an occlusion map so lets get to it...

Make sure the object (crate) is selected and click the rendering dropdown as before but this time choose render to texture (fig 25) *there will be a short wait now (few seconds)
Make the following adjustments (fig 26) then hit render, it make take a little while to finish this depending on your system... a new dialouge box will appear when you render showing the progress...

Important: Please pay attention to fig 26 making sure you choose the correct map size (same as texture) and save in a good place using the best lossless format (.tga) also be aware that as in fig 26 you need to select existing channel and NOT use Auto Unwrap!

By now you should have a map that resembles this (fig 27) open the saved texture in CS or whatever 2d app you are using. Select and copy the whole document and paste it over the map we we working on before, change the blending mode to multiply.
As before flatten the image and resave the texture, do what you have to do and load the texture into 3ds max and apply it to the crate object. Delete the lights we made and change the renderer back to scanline, either show the map or render to see the result (fig 28)

We can see that even with default lighting (which will be almost identical to the lighting in the game engine) that the object looks more 3d than flat and more realistic.

Stage 3 (painting new layers of detail)

Now we will go about adding that extra touch to the textures to add some diversity and added realism ;)
Of course this is all up to you to what you want to create but for me I would presume that this crate is outside somewhere and has gotten damp, maybe you want it inside a toy store where it will not need much editing?
Colour theory plays a big part here, decide what you want to do...

Ok so the object is outside where the wet ground has made it darker near the base and a bit moldy...
Here's how I would go about doing this...

1. The moldy base-
Make a rectangular selection around parts of the map (fig 29) Fill this area with a greenish brown, save the file and see the results in max.
We now have the approximate area's covered to represent the moldyness but everything is too square and needs modifying (fig 30) I did this by using the smudge tool and a graphics tablet.

Next lets create some effects over the green areas to break it up a bit more, at this stage you may want to group all the layers together and merge the group so that the mold is all on one layer.
Select the mold layer and go to filters, accented edges. Mess around with the parameters till you have something nice, what I was aiming for here was that kind of black border you get around mold with some good looking rings leading down from the top of the border.
Once satisfied select filters again but this time gaussian blur, make it a smallish radius so we retain some of the details, around 3 worked for me.
Ok again filters and this time gaussian noise (monochromatic), I set amount to 4.8% it seemed to give a nice effect :)
Finally I set opacity to 40% and adjusted the levels so that the mold was quite a bit darker to assume it is actually damp, here is the result (fig 31)

2. Detailling-

Finally we will create some additional effects on the texture for instance fonts and scratches...
Lets do the scratches first, create a new layer. Take a standard brush around 3 pixels in a black colour, press on medium hard and make wavey lines like veins all around the texture this is except for the moldy area's we created.
(see fig 32 for ideas)

Tips:
When making cracks start off with a light pressure and gradually increase.
Add some effects like layer style emboss and/or gaps of black like there is a bigger split in the wood.
Go nuts and explore your creativity but don't overdo it or the effect will be lost, be subtle and calculating but also sporadic like nature itself.

Next lets make some nails or staples so it looks like the crate is joined up, I won't post a pic on this as it's pretty obvious, all I did here was just use a pen tab and make small black circles (on a new layer of course!)
Let's add some text to the top of the crate, I chose "This end up" and "Fragile".
Here's what it's looking like so far (fig 33) Note you texture will look a bit different in darkness due to the fact I felt the crate wood was a bit light so I highlighted the wood layer (diffuse) and changed the contrast to full.

Finale!

Lets take the whole texture and give it some shabbyness like it's really worn...

Select diffuse layer and turn off all the other layers.
Duplicate the layer.
Image adjustments - desaturate the new layer copy.
Filters - lighting effects, using the red channel create moutainous effects.
Image adjustments - change the contrast to full.
Add some noise, around 5%.

You should end up with something like this... (fig 34)

Change the blending mode of this new layer to multiply and turn back on all the other layers.
Play with the opacity till you get a nice result.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/3d/Finalrender3.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/3d/Finalrender.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/GC3D/3d/Finalrender2.jpg

*Final notes, if you messed up on any part and need a head start I am including the files so there should be no headaches :)

I would like to thank the modding community and everybody who has followed this tut, hope you guys enjoyed it and learned something.


THE END!

GCmax
2nd Jun 2008, 10:39 PM
Forgot to mention, seeing as this is now complete could someone move it to the tutorials area or possibly make it a sticky, thanks.

Numenor
4th Jun 2008, 2:56 PM
Good work GCmax :) Tutorial moved to the proper forum section (I slightly changed the title for a better understanding of what the tutorial offers, if you don't mind).

GCmax
4th Jun 2008, 7:34 PM
Thankyou Numenor, don't mind at all, it's an honour to be able to add to the community :up:

AnaAdena
27th Dec 2009, 7:57 PM
This tutorial is great and I loved it! I find it very helpful and my only dissatisfaction was that I had to hunt for the picture I needed, so I did some editing for myself and decided to share.

Namely, I only copied the text and added pictures and made whole thing in PDF, which I find easier to use in this cases. I absolutely DID NOT edit text or tutorial in any way JUST ADDED pictures where they were labeled to be. They are in zip files arranged in order as they are published.
Tutorial 1 & 5 have attachments. I put attachment in for the first one, but fifth one was kinda too big bite for my net connection, so sorry, I didn't put for that one.

All credits go to GSmax for fabulous tutorial, I just helped a little :)

Thanx GSmax, you helped me more than you realize! :bunny: